Protein or moisture? The hair balance quiz
Limp and mushy, or stiff and snapping? Six questions to tell whether your curls want protein, moisture, or are already balanced.
The protein and moisture balance
Hair is mostly keratin, a protein, and it needs water to stay flexible. Protein gives the strand structure; moisture gives it stretch. Too much protein and hair turns stiff and brittle. Too little and it goes limp, mushy and over-stretchy. Curly hair shows both quickly because the bends exaggerate any weakness.
| Sign | Needs moisture (protein overload) | Needs protein (moisture overload) |
|---|---|---|
| Wet stretch test | Snaps with little stretch | Stretches a lot, may not bounce back |
| Feel | Stiff, rough, straw-like | Limp, gummy, overly soft |
| Curls | Frizzy, dull | Loose, stringy, no definition |
| Common cause | Protein treatments, rice water, keratin products | Bleach, heat, only rich conditioners |
How to do the stretch test
- Take a shed hair from your brush or shower, or gently pull one from a curl.
- Wet it, then hold each end and stretch it slowly.
- Healthy hair stretches a little and springs back. Snapping straight away means it needs moisture. Stretching a long way without returning means it needs protein.
Read next
- Protein overload or moisture overload? How to tell, and how to fix it
- High porosity curly hair routine: how to make moisture actually stay
- How to read a hair product label in 30 seconds (a curly hair ingredient checker)
Questions people ask
How do I know if my hair needs protein or moisture?
Do the wet stretch test. If a wet hair snaps with almost no stretch, it needs moisture. If it stretches a long way and feels mushy, it needs protein. If it stretches a little and springs back, it is balanced.
What does protein overload feel like?
Stiff, dry, rough and straw-like, even straight after conditioning, with more breakage and frizz. It often follows protein treatments, keratin products or rice water rinses.
How do I fix protein overload fast?
Clarify once, then deep condition with a protein-free conditioner using heat, and avoid protein for two to four weeks. Most hair feels better within two washes.
Is rice water protein?
Rice water contains starch and a small amount of protein. Used often, it can cause the same stiffness as protein overload, especially on low porosity hair.