How to read a hair product label in 30 seconds (a curly hair ingredient checker)

Marketing is on the front of the bottle. The truth is on the back. Here’s a method that takes half a minute.

The short version

  • Ingredients are listed from most to least. The first five are usually most of the bottle.
  • Everything after the preservative or fragrance is likely under 1%.
  • Check the first five for the four problem families: sulfates, drying alcohols, insoluble silicones, waxes.
  • “For curly hair” on the front means nothing. Read the back.

In the US and EU, cosmetic ingredients must be listed in descending order of concentration, down to 1%. Below 1%, they can appear in any order. That gives you two very useful rules.

Rule 1: the top five

The first five ingredients usually make up the large majority of the product. Water is almost always first. If a problem ingredient is in the top five, it’s a main ingredient. If it’s near the end, it’s a minor one.

Rule 2: the 1% line

Preservatives (phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate) and fragrance (parfum) are nearly always used below 1%. Anything listed after them is also likely below 1% — including that headline “argan oil” or “keratin” the front of the bottle is shouting about.

Marketing trick to spotIf a botanical oil the brand is named after appears after phenoxyethanol, there’s less of it in the bottle than there is preservative.

What to check, by product

ProductWant near the topWatch for in the top five
ShampooGentle surfactants: cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside, sodium cocoyl isethionateSodium lauryl / laureth sulfate
ConditionerFatty alcohols, behentrimonium chloride/methosulfate, oilsNon-soluble silicones if your hair builds up
Leave-in / creamWater, glycerin, fatty alcohols, light oilsHeavy butters if you’re low porosity
GelPolyquaternium, flaxseed, aloe, PVPAlcohol denat. high on the list
Pomade / paste—Beeswax, petrolatum, mineral oil, paraffin

A worked example

Here’s a real-style ingredient list from a “hydrating curl cream”:

Aqua, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Behentrimonium Chloride, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil…
  • Cetearyl alcohol (2nd) — a fatty alcohol. Good.
  • Dimethicone (3rd) — an insoluble silicone in the top five. Fine for some, build-up for fine or low-porosity hair.
  • Shea butter (6th) — rich. Great for high porosity, heavy for low.
  • Argan oil — after the preservative, so likely under 1%. It’s on the front for marketing.
Gel / CreamHydrating Curl Cream
  • DimethiconeSilicone · medium
  • Shea butterHeavy for low porosity
  • Argan oilBelow 1% likely

Fine for high-porosity, thick hair. Likely to weigh down fine, low-porosity curls.

The same list, scanned by Coil for a low-porosity profile.

Or let your phone read it

The rules above are worth knowing. But nobody wants to do this standing in a shop aisle. Coil’s product scanner reads the ingredient list from a photo, flags the four problem families, and scores the product against your profile — so the same cream can score 85 for one person and 55 for another.

Then it does the part no label can: each time you log a product in a check-in, Coil counts whether your curls had a good or bad day. After a few weeks, you get a success rate for every product on your shelf.

Questions people ask

Is there an app that checks if a product is good for curly hair?

Yes. Coil scans an ingredient label from a photo, flags sulfates, drying alcohols, silicones and waxes, and scores the product against your curl type and porosity.

Does the order of ingredients matter?

Yes. Ingredients are listed from highest to lowest concentration down to 1%, so the first few make up most of the product.

What does “aqua” mean on a label?

Aqua is the INCI name for water. It’s usually the first ingredient in conditioners, leave-ins and gels.